No doubt Deen has made some enemies. You can’t create a Krispy Kreme bread pudding without infuriating a few healthy eating scolds. But their smug sense of vindication could even end up making people like her more. The U.S. is a strange and conflicted country when it comes to food. We love our tacos, hate our scales and live in a state of perpetual shame. Paula Deen, after cooking all the wrong things so well and for so long, doesn’t seem to feel any guitl at all. And there’s something in us, I suspect, that can’t help but like her for it, even though we know it’s wrong.
Josh Ozersky, “Grease Under Fire” in the January 30, 2012 edition of TIME.